Showing posts with label Kenai Peninsula. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Kenai Peninsula. Show all posts

Sunday, August 20, 2017

Soggy Bottom 100 2017 Edition

Highlights:

  • Meredith beats three other ladies to win the solo women’s race in 11:10:41, completing her longest and hardest ride to-date.
  • Adam sets a new course record by 3 minutes, taking the win in 8:33:02
  • Lee signs up day-off despite protestations “he did not train for this event” to take 7th in 9:38. Told ya dude.
  • Probably the nicest weather all summer, despite all the suffering it caused, it was hard not to appreciate how gorgeous it was.
  • Oh ya, I had an OK day too I guess. I shaved 29 minutes off my previous PR from last year to take 5th, hammering for seven of nine hour with Kevin to finish a mere 23 seconds behind Kevin in 9:23:57

Photo: M. Stewart
 

Briefly:

My fourth Soggy, I rode this one pretty much exactly to plan. Everything was about as dialed in as it can be for nearly 10 hours in the saddle. I rode to Cooper at a sustainable race-pace, driving a few key sections, but waited until I turned around for leg 2 Cooper-Devils to attack. I dropped my long-time closest “rival” Kevin, and clipped 4 more positions on the way to the Devils trail head, and then rode with what I had left to Hope. I botched a feed heading up Devils due to overheating, and that put a short-lived air gap in the fuel lines, slowing me down long enough that Kevin, who had since overtaken the other riders we’d been yo-yoing with all day, caught back up. He and I proceeded to hammer each other and the trail for the next 30 miles to the finish.

I was stacked with other riders almost all day, it felt more like a race than any other Soggy I’ve done. It was, in a word: incredible. Racing against Kevin is awesome, he’s the only other rider since Mike K left the state who I’d consider in my cohort, who just crushes me on descents and technical stretches of trail. We are both “hold-our-own” riders on climbs, not cardio rats by any stretch, so it feels like real, head-to-head mountain biking when it comes down to it.

 

The long:

The cruel fate of the race this year for many was the heat. The irony of this was certainly not lost on me. Where the summer of 2016 was hot and dry, only to have race day arrive cool and wet, this summer it’s been pretty average for AK: cool and damp. The rains missed the Kenai in the week or so leading up to the race though, and temps rose into the mid 70s (the ambient on the baked climbs in the very tall vegetation easily climbed into the 80s). Some people refered to the race this year as the “Scorched Bottom.”

Turnout for the front end of the race was a little soft. Adam, Chuck, and Brian rode in a class of their own, though toward the end of the race I held a little hope that Kevin and I might reel Brian in. It was not to be though.

The second grupetto as it was, proved to be more evenly matched throughout much of the race, and was fairly consolidated.

We all took off at 9:10, and the pace line to the trailhead went pretty hard. We were up the road and on trail in 15 minutes! For some reason, Chuck, Adam, and I did the bulk of the pulling. I didn’t feel too bad riding on the front, it helped open up my legs, and once we hit the trail, I slid into the back and geared it down.

Chuck said the lead group rode together to the East Creek climb, before Adam attacked and blew up the group. Adam and Chuck separated, riding together to Cooper. Chuck said he thought the group was largely at their limit before the attack, no one could talk.

A few miles from the trail head, James H passed me. Shortly after, Lee caught up. Lee and I caught James a few minutes later, and the three of us paced until Lee and I went around James on the last canyon climb before the Resurrection Creek trestle. 

Lee and I rode together up and over the pass. Though neither of us spoke, it was nice to have the company.

Lee did ask as we crested the pass how our pace was.

I felt like garbage, in a good way, but I knew we were right on pace, and feeling bad gave me the impression we were probably actually doing pretty good.

As we began to drop into the descent to Swan Lake, I started to pull away from Lee, and caught sight of Kevin for the first time of the day, less than 30 seconds down the trail. About halfway down the Swan Lake descent, I had closed the gap to Kevin to 5 seconds, when I burped my front tire.

I had visions of my race ending, and having to hike out. Panic began to build.

I rolled softly until I found a break in the thick wall of vegetation and jumped off. The bugs immediately began to swarm. If I had to change a tire, it was going to be miserable.

Lee came by before I had my pump out. The tire held air though, and I was back on the trail in less than 5 minutes. I added a bit more pressure despite drier and looser conditions that warranted softer PSI.

My gut was clenched as I bopped my way through the ruts and divets on the rest of the descent to Swan, but the tire seemed fine.

I caught sight of Kevin again on the shores of Juneau Lake. He had been overtaken by Lee. I donlt remember where I passed Kevin.

Juneau to Bean Creek Jct. was one of the zones I planned to drill. I don’t remember anything here. I know Kevin clipped on for a while, but I don’t know how long he stayed with me. I know I didn’t put a lot of space between us.

Descending to Coopers was pretty low stress. I had good sight lines on all the approaching riders, and other than Adam and Chuck, most the riders were still bunched up pretty close to the base of the climb, so my gap was fairly small.

Kevin caught back up to me right as we hit the dismount at the parking lot. Lee was just departing as I reached the timers. We high fived. I was stoked for Lee. He was crushing it.

Turnaround was super smooth. Carly’s support is so amazing. Little Gus helped steady my bike while I lubed the chain and checked my tire pressure – which I was glad to see, was unchanged. Whatever happened on the descent appeared to be a fluke.

I chugged most of a 16oz bottle of 50% dilute of Liquid I.V., swallowed a fruity Kind bar that was happily melted and gooey in the heat, and grabbed my alternate pack.

Back on the trail, Kevin followed me back into the woods, and we were back on the trail.

I had plans for Leg 2.

People hate this leg. I hate it too, but that makes it a good place to attack. With Kevin right behind me, we drilled the climb out of Cooper. I was surprised to see later, that even though we were able to chat a little as we climbed, I still set a PR on a segment of the climb. Descending riders were courteous and we didn’t have any issues.

I was stoked when I saw Meredith. I expected to see her much sooner than I did last year, and sure enough, she was already ahead of half the men’s field and on track to shave 18 minutes off her Hope-Cooper time from 2016!

Keeping to plan, I drilled it from the top of the Cooper climb to the base of the summer trail cut-off hike-a-bike.

All I remember is briefly passing David B, and separating from Kevin by a little bit around Juneau Lake.

On the way, I primed the fuel lines.

Off the bike and hiking around the first switchback of the cut-off, Kevin closed the small gap, and we found Owen, stopped, stretching his cramping legs.

The three of us finished up the hike.

I had my two biggest challengers from last year grouped up, right where I wanted them. Now I needed to get distance between us through the stony climb to Devils Junction.

After Owen’s explosive climb up Devils in the 3rd leg last season, I knew he was a force to be reckoned with, and could contend for the rest of this climb; I knew I could distance Kevin up the climb, but he’d gain ground on the descent. If either of them got to the Devils trail head checkpoint with me, they would be a real threat for the finish.

Unfortunately for Owen, the leg cramps would get the better of him, and he would not contend on the climb, and would fade.

I dieseled my way through the rocky Swan grade, and as I got my first sight of the Devils Junction from afar, I caught a glimpse of a David F. I reeled him in just before the final pitch to the Junction, and came around. He said another rider was just in front of us. I suspected it was Lee.

David clipped on as we began the flowy cruise to Devils Pass proper, and I want to say about the time we rounded Devils Lake, I saw Lee’s red and white jersey up ahead.

We caught and overtook Lee not long after entering the Devils rocks.

I had a near-spectacular wreck crossing the Henry Brook twin fords. Wanting to get as a big a splash as possible, I railed the first of the two ice-cold streams at full speed. I’d never tried this, and I hydroplaned and nearly flipped over the bars down the downstream side! I have no idea how I managed to keep upright.

David and I built a 2 minute gap on Lee on the remainder of the Devils descent.

A couple moments of comic relief broke up the descent. One came when I nearly hit a small bird and yelled to David behind me if he’d seen it. He couldn’t hear what I said, and thought I said: “Make bird noises.” (I’m not sure how he arrived at this).

I was yelling constantly as I expected to see Adam, Chuck, Brian, and Greg. David proceeded to make cawing noises for the next few minutes in accompaniment to my hollering, until our pace finally mellowed out enough to clear the confusion. Keep in mind, I had no idea who this guy was, all I knew was that he lived in Spain, and was clipped on my wheel, cawing like a crow.

The next moment of comic relief came lower down thanks to my ancient camelback I re-enlisted for use on this leg.

Tearing through the winding trail and head-high veg near the base, the bite valve caught my leg or handle bar and popped off: water began to squirt everywhere from the out of control hose.

Trying to hang on with one hand, get the hose under control with the other, and spraying myself in the face, I expected to slam into poor Chuck at any second.

Fortunately, Chuck was still a little further down the trail, and I managed to close the valve.

What a junk show!

David and I powered up the climb to the trail head, but were finally able to chat a little bit.

We rolled in, I chugged another bottle of 50% dilute of Liquid I.V., lubed my chain, took my snack, and looked around.

Lee had rolled in while I transitioned. Neither he nor David was ready to roll.

I unclicked my suspension for the mini descent and dropped back in. Kevin rolled in just as I rolled out.

David caught me as we began the actual climb. I asked if he wanted to come around but he said he liked my pace.

It was too steep and too hot to talk. David hung on for about half the steeps, but somewhere before Delta Point, he fell off my wheel.

Climbing Devils was awful. The heat was unreal and I was overheating.

Descending riders were very courteous. Many of them were smiling, and offering words of encouragement. I was too deep in my suffering to even hear half of them. I hardly even recognized Meredith when she came by.

Most the riders were smiling, enjoying their hard-earned downhill. I wanted to yell at them: “It’s a death trap, stop smiling!”

Based on what I was going through, I knew a lot of people were going to get crushed.

Once the climb leveled out, I was still too hot to even think about taking a feed. Putting anything other than water into my stomach made me want to puke.

I figured if I could get through the next two miles of rolling trail, I’d cool off, and could possibly take a feed right before the rocks.

It was a small mistake, but it hurt me. I opened my pace up across the rolling middle section, but never took the feed before I got into the rocks like I should have.

I dieseled through the heinous rocks. I knew I had to be treading water, but the rocks are slow and plodding anyway, and I couldn’t really tell how much damage I was inflicting on myself.

As soon as I got out of the rocks couple miles later, I hit a nice smooth rolling climb to the high point.

I went to drill the climb.

There was nothing there.

Fuck.

Visions of another 30 miles of soft pedaling to Hope, getting passed by one rider after another, trying to latch on only to get dropped over and over again, played across a dark screen in my mind. My head felt like it weighed a million pounds and I struggled to hold it up.

Experience kicked in. I popped back half a pack of caffeinated shotbloks.

This is the hard part.

Fuel is on the way, but my body is screaming for more, though in reality, it can only process so much, and feeding the beast too much just makes a painful gut bomb.

Wait. Wait. Wait. Pedal on. There’s no gas. The trail goes by so slowly. All day I;ve been flying, now I’m just crawling.

Approaching the lake, my temperature is coming back down, and I can start to feel the fuel coming online.

Take another feed now!

The lines are re-primed.

Clickity-clickity-clickity. Kevin rolls up on my wheel.

I finish a waffle as he comes around and descends from the trail above Devils Lake, rolling along just in front of me.

It feels like 2014 all over again.

Not quite though.

I test the gas again.

It’s there!

A couple minutes later, I round the corner and head up the switchback above the Devils Junction. The last climb to the Res Pass is my salvation. The spectator crew shouts encouragement. I shout back: “I want three burgers!”

I’m back!

In 2014, Kevin disappeared over the horizon here.

Not this year.

I keep him in sight all the way through Res, closing the gap to within seconds before we finally tip over the edge.

I knew he’d put some time into me on the descent to East Creek, I limited damages to that point.

What I love about racing against Kevin, is that he’s one of the only racers I go up against in my cohort that kicks my ass on the descents. Neither he nor I are slouches on climbs, but we also aren’t pure lungs and legs either. I have to work to limit my losses on descents with him, and if I slack or get caught out on a climb, he’ll make me pay.

I was glad to see as I made it down to East Creek and began the short climb out, that Kevin was still in sight.

Trail knowledge kicked in. I knew I’d need another feed to get to the trestle, and the short grade out of East Creek is a nice and easy one. The ensuing straightaways between the creeks are fast and rooty. There’s a short climb out of “upper surprise creek” between East Creek and Fox Creek, but it’s steep and rocky, not a great spot to try and get a snack. I knew from here on out it was going to be all about drilling the long straight-aways and hitting the short climbs from the creeks hard.

I let Kevin slide away just a tad on East Creek, and then went back on the hunt.

I reeled him back in, along with the Beemuns relay team rider who had passed us earlier, right before Fox Creek.

The three of us grouped up and hammered together to about mile 4. Kevin had to jump off somewhere along the way for a second to pull a stick from his drive train, and I took one more feed just after crossing the Res Creek trestle, but otherwise we stayed together.

Kevin and I both knew we were deep in PR territory, and even though we were racing, we acknowledged that it was chasing each other that was pushing us and making this race so awesome.

It had felt like an incredible group ride nearly all day.

Finally, at the mile 2 SOB hill, Kevin got up the climb just a titch in front of me, and then bombed the descent putting a 20-30 second gap on me to the trailhead.

We worked hard down the road, neither of us relented, but I never could close the gap. Awesome. Just awesome!
 

Feeds/Water:

The biggest change up this year for me, was the use of an electrolyte mix. My bike can’t effectively carry a water bottle, and I’m not comfortable riding soley on a mix carried in my bladder. I used a 50% dilute of Liquid I.V. in a 16oz bottle at each checkpoint.

Duh moment here: it really helped. My water retention was  better, I never felt thirsty once on a hot day, and my power was strong and consistent all day. Last year I complained of needing some kind of “bonus” feed to level things out. This was it, for sure.

I carried 1.75 liters of water on the first leg, and 2 liters on legs 2 and 3. I basically killed my water on leg 1, and had maybe 1/4 a liter left on the latter two legs. I could have carried a bit less on leg 2 (I spilled a good bit due to a leaky valve and then losing my bite valve), but it is also one of the hottest and hardest legs, I had plans to attack, and I did not want dehydration to limit my power. I knew if I got into the meat of the climb and felt like I was carrying too much water I could dump or chug.

My feeds were the same as they were last year, and maybe the year before. I ate 100-150 cals every 45 minutes in the form of Cliff Shotbloks and Honey Stinger Waffles; a Kind energy bar (some type of fruity nutty flavor) at each checkpoint; and included a Cliff Mocha Shot for the final stretch of the third leg (NOS). I did not eat anything caffeinated until the final leg.

I carried way more food then I needed.  I ate one waffle per leg, I’m pretty sure I ate one pack of shotblocks per leg, but it’s a little hazy.

Here’s one critical take away: I made sure to take feeds before starting any of the descents to prime the fuel lines, so to speak. Adam once said something to the extent of: Fuel your uphills by fueling on downhills. (Technically, I think he said that if you eat at the base of a climb to fuel your climb, you missed the boat).

I carried all my food onboard again, did a backpack swap out at each checkpoint, and thanks to Carly and crew, had seamless transitions.

Tuesday, June 27, 2017

Two Favorite Kenai Epics

Russian-Res-Devils Loop
Distance: 76 miles
Climbing: 7,000 feet
Season: June, or late September
The gist:
Start at Devils Creek Trail Head, take the Seward Highway 2 miles to Tern Lake Picnic Area, and head down the Old Seward Highway to where it meets up with Crescent Creek Road/Quartz Creek Road. For a 90 miler and an additional 1500’ or so of climbing, add an out-and-back on Crescent Lake Trail. Otherwise, follow Crescent Creek Road to Quartz Creek Road to the Sterling Highway. Cross the highway, heading left toward Cooper, and take the first jeep road immediately on the right. The jeep road climbs steeply. Stay left past the junction with a cell tower. After passing a high point with a great overlook, the road spits you back down on the highway briefly. Ride the shoulder carefully for about 100 feet until you spot the ATV trail heading into the woods on the right. The ATV trail is actually rather techy in places, even though it parallels the roadway. It will briefly spit you back out on the shoulder twice on the way to Cooper: first very briefly onto a gravel shoulder before heading back into the woods; and again to cross a driveway (take the driveway for 20 feet and the ATV trail will dive left off the driveway), before eventually joining a utility corridor. The corridor can get a little mucky, and trail will exit to the left to follow a wide and safe gravel shoulder the rest of the way to Cooper.
This ATV segment sounds more complicated than it actually is, and is a million times safer to ride than riding the shoulder of the highway! The short section of highway between Cooper Landing and Quartz Creek Road is not safe to ride!
Head through Cooper, cross the Kenai River (pedestrian bridge is located on downstream side of bridge), and cross the highway onto Snug Harbor Road. Take Snug up to Russian Lakes trailhead. After riding the 20-some miles of Russian Lakes trail, it may be worth taking a quick side trip toward the campground to refill on water. This is close to the mid-point of the ride. When you hit the trail head/parking lot, go left, up the campground road toward the campgrounds. Water is available at the RV dump station on your left, maybe ¾ of a mile.
From Russian, head down to the Sterling Highway, go left on the highway to the Resurrection Pass Trail Head.
Take Res Pass Trail to Devils Junction, and drop down Devils Creek Trail back to the TH and your car.

Hints:
This is a really smooth link up, with a lot of gravel to tie the trails together, with very limited pavement. The trails themselves are pretty easy: Russian is about as advanced as things get, but it’s a “descent” on this route. As noted, the ATV connection between Quartz Creek Road and Cooper Landing sounds complicated, but it’s literally an ATV trail next to the road, just keep following it. Also as noted, it has a few short techy sections to keep it interesting, and is a major asset to have as an alternative a connection to avoid a very dangerous segment of roadway.
Water is available at the Tern Lake Picnic Area (two people to use this pump), Quartz Creek Boat Launch (spigot), and the Russian River Campground (spigot).
The season on this ride is pretty much June onward, and is limited by snow in Res and Devils Pass early in the month, and vegetation on Russian later in the month. It’s pretty likely that this ride will include some snow drift cyclocross action through Devils Pass.
This loop could open up in September-Early October in cold and dry autumns.

I hit this loop for the first time on 2016 with Carey G, and again this year with Chuck D. Both years, the early to mid-June timeframe seemed to be the money spot for low veg and few snow crossings.
Both years, I opted for the simpler 76-mile option, and both years, the total ride time was around 7:45 at a reasonable pace, though could easily be driven down by quite a bit with more motivation.

In a head-to-head between this loop or the Resurrection-Devils-Johnson Loop (90 miles), I pick this one as my favorite.

Res-Devils-Johnson 2017
90 miles
8,000 Feet climbing
Time: Mid-June through July 4

I’d completed RDJ in various formats and rig choices in 2013, 14, and 15, but I just wasn’t super pleased with this route, and I took a break from the RDJ last season. The forecasts and fast-growing veg on Johnson last year didn’t inspire me to get after it.
This year, I had a choice for the weekend of June 24-25: do Arctic MTB’s Double-Down Race on a course designed by Ryan G, and well suited for someone who does well on climb-heavy and rooty courses (ya, that’s me), or head to the Kenai. It was a tough call, but the forecast was spectacular, and with July Fourth the following weekend – a holiday I try not to spend on the Peninsula – and a summer so far lacking in sunny weekends, it seemed like a Kenai Epic was a worthy pursuit.
Meredith was interested in riding the trail portion of the RDJ this year, and after mulling some different options, we came up with a new twist.
For starters, we’d ride the route clockwise, which is the opposite direction of how I’ve always ridden it. We’d also start the ride at the North Johnson Pass Trail Head, and this time, I’d employ a road bike for the long road segment.
The key element to this plan was just that: we’d be leaving my road bike at a colleague of Meredith, Doug’s, cabin, outside Hope. 
The bane of this loop is it’s 28 miles of road (24 paved) between North JP TH, and the North Resurrection Pass Trail Head. This long stretch of pavement has long steered the counter-clockwise routing of the ride, as at least that put the bulk of the hateful road riding pointed toward sea level.
I tried to ease the pain of this long road connection in previous renditions by riding a hard tail for the whole loop, or having a hard tail staged at the North JP TH for just the road portion.
I wasn’t sure that riding a road bike after 67 miles would really make me think better of this loop, but it was obvious almost immediately: the 24-miles between Doug’s and the car went way smoother and faster with drop bars and 28c tires. Lest I say it, I really enjoyed the road connection!
The other two benefits however, were less apparent beforehand, but definitely afterward. First, riding Johnson Pass north to south right off the bat gets the most technical part of the ride out of the way immediately, and second, climbing Devils and up to Res is downright pleasant compared to the opposite. Climbing the north side of Res is the most tedious, dull, and hateful section of trail on the Kenai…not that I have strong opinions on it or anything...
Early on in the day, we bumped into Kenai 250 riders Aaron, Dusty, Anson, and Kevin. I had a feeling we might see a few of the boys later on.
The clouds lifted as rode through swarms of hatching bugs on Johnson, but temps stayed reasonable. In the south Johnson TH I popped my helmet off my head, and a mass of dead midges fell from my head!
We stopped at the “rust pipe” at Tern Lake Day Use Area on the 7-mile road connection between south JP and Devils for a water refill. Up Devils we caught back up with Kevin, and could see Anson a little ways off as we neared the high point.
For time management (Meredith’s ride would end around 67 miles at Doug’s cabin, while mine would continue another 24 miles to the car) we decided this would be a good time to split off.
I bombed through the descent to Hope, and onward to the cabin. Having learned from before, I left the clock running through my turnaround for feed-management purposes. I dumped my pack, changed to road shoes, snapped in some dark lenses, and made sure to grab my car key.
I felt really good, and as I steered the road bike out onto the Hope Highway, my legs told me to give it all I had.
I had an absolute blast powering up Hope Highway and onward on the bike path to Johnson.
About a mile or two before I made it to the car, my legs started to fizzle, so I tapped a little deeper, casting aside the thought of a cool down, and spinning the Solace’s slick tires over loose stones right up the short gravel road to the car.
I rolled in an awesome and complete physical and mental wreck.
Great ride.








Ready for a Kenai July epic?
Here’s my favorite:

Wednesday, April 27, 2016

Digging for Treasure: A Brief Obsession with the Past

Alaska is a land of people who seem to be perpetually on the move. They come from somewhere else, pass through, view the country through their respective lenses, and often, in time, move on.

Alaska has also been a magnet of sorts for those in search of riches – sometimes monetary, sometimes perhaps more tangential.

More people have, and will continue to come in search of those riches, before moving on, for richer or poorer, in a cycle that seems endless.

It’s easy to lose sight of civilization, or its existence, in the mountains of Southcentral Alaska. It’s also just as easy to quickly be reminded that despite the ease with which quiet and solitude are found in seemingly empty valleys and ridgelines, these places have not always been so quiet, nor empty.

That’s Alaska in general though: no collective memory.

The historical record just doesn’t go that far back. Oral traditions tell tales through the millennia, but the written record only made thin forays beyond the Alaskan coast a couple hundred years ago, and more extensive history-keeping only began within the past century and a half.

This winter, for whatever reason, my appetite for hyper-local history of the eastern Kenai spiked.

During my first winters here, I read Alaskana lit voraciously. The books were broad, they covered the state, from the Aleutians to Eagle, from recent history to that of the first peoples who trekked here across a now-submerged land bridge from Asia.

This winter, I found myself specifically interested in the men and women who lived, worked, and died in the mountains I spend much of my time in on the Eastern Kenai during the turn of the last century.

I wasn’t completely unaware of this region’s history, or the names and places. There was a story here and there from something I’d heard or read, but I wanted more.

Luckily, Title Wave Books in Spenard keeps an entire Alaska mining history sub-section, and I snapped up what I could find on the area.

It’s not so much that I was curious about mining, and it was far from it that I was interested in broader Alaska history; I just wanted to read about people, in places I knew, with specific references to valleys, tarns, streams, ridges, and forests that I could still see, or at least imagine.

I got it.

By far, the best and most comprehensive account of mining history on the Kenai comes Mary Barry’s book, “A History of Mining on the Kenai Peninsula.”

What I liked about this work, was its unromantic, second source format. Barry used records, and first person accounts, but generally refrained from editorializing, except for occasionally pointing out potential gaps or exaggerations of stories.

At times, the book is almost tedious, with year-by-year accounts of each mine’s activities.

At the same time, it’s a relief to step away from the constantly overhyped, overly weapy, obsession with Alaska and its grandeur.

Indeed, Alaska is a beautiful place, but how many ways can you call the sky blue?

There were parts to reading this history that were heartening, but also disheartening, for sure.

I loved when I could pin point a gulch, a valley, a lake: to know for sure, that the early pioneers saw the same thing I saw; to know how different it must have looked and felt to them; to only have rough trails connecting small outposts; to be made to feel alone by their surroundings, and yet to see the area grow.

At the same time, after three crushingly warm winters in Alaska, it stung to read of deep and persistent snow packs, of heavy ice, and of cold, without the typical hyperbole that frequently intrudes Outside Alaskana writing.

Pick up any magazine story, or the diarrhea description of one of the countless shallow and vain “reality” shows on modern Alaska, and one expects a land possibly as harsh or worse than what some faced over a century ago. It’s a lie, and anyone wearing shorts-sleeves on a hike in March can tell you that.

If you want evidence that Alaska’s landscape is changing, it’s certainly everywhere: visit one of the state’s accessible glaciers and look at the little markers showing the rate of glacial retreat, that’s understood, sure.

Maybe I knew, maybe I didn’t, but the snout of Skilak Glacier used to be visible on Skilak Lake?

Did Portage Lake ever freeze this past winter, or the last? Doubtful. Many know the story of the Portage Glacier retreating out of sight from the expensive National Forest visitor’s center that was built to take it in during the 1980s; when the first miners arrived to the region, there was no such thing as Portage Lake, or what there was, was a puddle.

In May of 1896, thousands of stampeders stomped about impatiently on the beaches of Kachemak Bay, waiting for the ice to clear from the otherwise choked Turnagain Arm. The vessels weren’t able to reach Sunrise or Hope until the end of May that year. There was ice in the Arm for all of about 4 weeks this past winter, quite similar the preceding two.

On the other hand, there were countless examples of places that haven’t changed. My favorite was a picture taken on the East Fork, perhaps in May, that showed Pete’s South in the distant background, with its same damn glide crack that shows up there every year.

I took away something about the people too.

At first, I was really disheartened to read the accounts of the early miners who arrived on the shores of the northern Kenai in the late 1800s.

Many were simply fools; mostly men who were either duped, or desperate enough, they gave up what savings they had or went into debt to trek north to a land they’d probably hardly heard of, for riches that were apparently plentiful.

You still see this today: the idea that Alaska’s treasures are both bountiful and easy for the taking.

Incredibly unbelievable stories about mountain streams filled with big golden nuggets waiting to be scooped up drove these men to a point of frenzy, buying up a season’s worth of expensive supplies and gear, storming ships and demanding passage north.

Upon arrival, most were greatly disappointed.

While we often think of the early pioneers as tough, resourceful, and enduring in the face of hardship, the reality was, a lot of those who came up in the first rushes of the late 1890s were anything but, and truthfully, had no business being in this wilderness.

They reminded me of that skier, flush with a brand new $1000+ backcountry ski set up, bright new goretex wear, but struggling like hell to make even a kick turn within sight of their car.

The blue bird, blower pow, the “AK velvet” so eagerly hyped and promised by the industry, does require a little work, and it doesn’t oft come easy. The truth is though, your average first timer AT skier, fresh out the doors of REI, is probably more prepared and motivated than some of those early miners were.

Many of the first stampeders sought passage back on the first boats for Seattle when they realized that riches were going to come the same way they did anywhere else: damn hard work and time.

As is well known, the people who fared best from the early days of the rush, were those who purveyed the goods, who sailed the ships, and who ran the mule trains and the lumber mills.

The miners who did strike it rich were often just lucky above all else.

My favorite case was that of A.W. “Jack” Morgan. In his memoires, Morgan explained how he was duped by a seemingly trustworthy doctor in Oregon who claimed to have traveled up the Susitna River to a rich claim. Morgan traveled to Alaska with a group including the doctor to their jumping off point in Tyonek. After three days, they hardly made it upstream of the mouth of the big sandy river before they realized their leader had never been to Alaska, there was no claim, and that they best part ways. Broke, Morgan bounced around Turnagain Arm a bit prospecting and working, before taking some work at a so far relatively unsuccessful mine on Lynx Creek. A turn of events lead Morgan to become a part owner, and the chief operator of the claim. He spent his first Alaskan winter at the mine, watching over his own and the adjacent claims, high in the mountains, hunting and trapping. Not long after Morgan took over, the mine hit its “paystreak” and Morgan cleaned up well. Morgan continued to live in Alaska for a number of years, before eventually returning south, but he seemed to be one of the few who came away richer in more than one sense of the word.

As I read deeper into the history of the region, I found, that, as time wore on, those who actually wanted to be in the area, were willing to stick it out, and like Morgan, found riches beyond the gold.
The Kenai was obviously not a great place to get rich. It quickly thinned those who were there to make a quick buck. Unbelievably, many of those same fools followed myth and rumor to the next rush. Those who stayed though, became the founders of the modern Kenai, establishing the communities of Hope, Sunrise, Seward, and Girdwood. The names of those men and women still stick to the sides of mounts or along seemingly forgotten claims and streams on USGS maps, or, for others, deep in obscure pages of history.