I’ve heard a menagerie of reasons why snowboarders who were
lured to the backcountry on a splitboard have quit and gone over to skiing.This
never ceaces to both annoy me, and make me sad.
There is only one reason I ever find this transition to be acceptable
– and that’s a topic for another post – anything else is just an excuse.
What I will say, and have said before, is that splitboarding
absolutely takes more effort compared to backcountry skiing.
It’s not surprising that splitboarders are often known for
their “hustle.”
They need to be much more actively engaged in their terrain choices
to determine the best line, and to understand what their options are for a mode
of travel, and which will be most effective.
I grew up snowboarding the east. I aimed for hardwood glades
and mogul fields. For me, it was all about the challenge presented by the terrain
and the mountain..even if they were smaller mountains.
To complain that splitboarding is too much work, is to miss
completely the point of going into the backcountry at all.
If you simply want to whiz down a hill with minimal effort,
consider staying on area…the green circle trails are usually the easiest.
While you should absolutely quit and take up couch surfing
if the idea of having to work a bit for a fun line scares you, here are some
tips to make the ride that much better.
My target audience here is pretty broad, so I apologize if
some of the advice seems either basic or generic.
Learn how to ski, at least a little bit:
OK, despite the fact that the basis of this post is to keep
snowboarders boarding as opposed to AT skiing, the fact of the matter is, at
the very least, 50% of splitboarding is skiing.
Being comfortable on two boards is key. I have seen more
than a few talented boarders lock up in fear when they had to point their split
down a short embankment a fraction the size of your average Iowa sledding hill.
Splitboards don’t make for good skis, there’s no question
about that, and you will never make skiing on a splitboard look good, but
that’s not the point.
My advice: head to your local lift serve hill and rent or
borrow skis for one day a season and ski groomers on a day when the backcountry
is not inviting/safe. If that’s not an option, try Nordic skiing (WHAT!?).
The time spent on skis will help immensely with balance and
technique, not to mention, skiing is actually fun (YOU HAVE GOT TO BE KIDDING
ME!) Remember too, if you do any Nordic: neon lycra makes you faster.
Skinning
Here’s some easy tips. On uphill travel, remember that
splitboards are wide, and will struggle to sidehill across firmer terrain. Be
aware that your downhill ski, which will have the shaped outside of the board
edge as the inside ski edge, will have less bite than the straight edge of the
uphill ski (inside for board). Expect less security from your downhill leg on
firm snow. A set of Voile touring mount riser blocks will give you more
leverage on an edge. Investing in ski crampons, which are offered by all
splitboard binding makers, can make tough, low elevation rain/melt crust, or
wind hammered ridges, easier by many fold.
Steep kick turns are not a splitboarder’s friend.
While overall board weight can make climbing hard in
general, heavier boards are especially tough to repeatedly swing around kick
turns.
The next two biggest factors when it comes to steep kick
turns are the inside edge issues already discussed, along with the shovel action
created by the twin tips of the boards.
As discussed, the side-cut issue will make it difficult to
have confidence weighting a downhill ski.
The twin tips create twin issues. The up-turned tail means you can’t
anchor the tail of a split ski. If you follow a someone without a twin tip, you
may see them anchor their tail from time to time. Meanwhile, the nose of the
board can “shovel-tip” itself into the snow of a steep back wall on a kick turn.
The best bet to remedying all of this is to first recognize
if a kick turn is going to be a problem before making it.
If the turn is steep, hard packed, or washed out, plan on taking
the extra second to hammer your inside edge in place with a firm stomp while
executing the turn.
Always try to get you heels at least on level with, or
slightly above the apex of the turn. Cutting a corner is not only harder, but
it washes the track out, making the kick turn worse for the next person. I always
like to tell people to try and step down into the kick turn if they can.
As for the shovel-tip issue, if the backwall is steep, and
looks like it will try and capture the tip of the board, use your pole to cut
away some of the backwall first, and create more turning room. Do this by
planting the pole and cutting an arc in a semi-circle through the wall, cutting
away a block of snow.
Be sure to push this snow away if possible.
Steep kick turns suck up energy. If you’re already feeling pumped
before you have to make a difficult one, slow down as you approach it, or take
a breather before you begin. Never stop in the middle of a steep kick turn,
you’re almost guaranteed to pump your legs or lose your purchase holding the awkward
position. It’s much easier to rest above or below a turn. When you begin the
turn, just keep moving, no matter what.
Typically, I modulate my pace on the skin track, moving with
long strides as I leave a kick turn, and slowing and shortening my stride as I
approach aggressive turns. How much I throttle my pace depends on how hard I
anticipate the kick turn being and how steep the track is.
You will learn your pacing in time, and get stronger the
more time you spend out.
Lastly, if the track is too steep, or too washed out,
instead of cursing the creator, consider making your own.
Take care of you skins, both on and off the mountain. Spark
R&D makes splitboard skin tail clips, which are highly recommended. There
are also some DIY options out there. Keep your skins out of the snow during
transitions. Incidental frost build up will usually occur around the tip and
tail on the underside of the skin regardless. Rapidly rubbing the effected part
of the glue on a shell or snowpants easily wipes the frost away and rejuvenates
the glue. I don’t use skin savers and have had few problems, but certainly use
them, or fold the skins on themselves, when you put them away at the top of a run.
On colder days, it may be helpful to throw the skins inside your jacket while
you transition at the bottom of a run so the glue rejuvenates a bit. On really
cold days, I usually make my descent with my skins inside my shell.
If you’re riding for days in a row, make it a priority to
dry your skins before each outing if possible, treating them like you would a critical
base layer you need to be dry. If I don’t think my skins will have time to dry
on their own, I will use a hair dryer to help them out. Otherwise, I hang them
up in a warm, dry spot. When putting them away for a few days or an extended
period, let them dry first, and then keep them stuck together, and sealed up as
much as possible.
Skin glue will wear out with time, and the skins traction
will fade. It is your decision on how much TLC your skins need, and when to
replace them.
Identify the terrain and the appropriate mode of travel
OK, now we get into the meat of it. As a splitboarder, you
have a number of different travel options. Deciding on the fly which is most
appropriate takes experience, but here are some tips.
Downhill
· Board
Duh. You’re a splitboarder. This is what you came out here to do after all. For
the most part this is fairly obvious, but what about running into a short
decent on a long approach? My criteria, is that I typically won’t put the board
together for anything less than 400 vertical feet. It’s just not worth it.
There are caveats though. One for sure, is safety. I’m pretty comfortable on my
split skis, but if you’re not confident in your ability to split ski a slope,
whether due to steepness, snow quality, or obstacles like trees and rocks, do
what you know best.
· Ski
Pssst, I’ll tell you a secret: split skiing is easier with your skins on. Skins
are like training wheels. They slow you down and give the skis some
consistency. If you’re intimated by a descent, but think it’s too short to make
it worth going into board mode, try descending with your skins on. You can
traverse around easier, climb out of tricky situations, and avoid losing
control. While a more advanced skier might rip skins and milk the short shot,
it’s probably not worth your time, and you may be down it, and moving onward
before they even get their skins back on. Making a descent in ski mode without
skins is more ideal if you need to trudge out a long, powdery valley bottom
where you can maintain some glide, but cannot cross country snowboard, or need
to drop a short, mellow slope.
·
Cross country board
Ah yes, this is my favorite: Cross country snowboarding, also sometimes called
Euro-boarding, is when you keep your board together, and whip out the poles to
help keep you going. Ideal terrain for this is either a descent punctuated with
shorts flats or a short rise; or gradually descending, firm packed valley
bottoms. Typically, you will want to stay on an established track or other
packed surface where you can stay afloat and get some pushing power out of the
poles. I use this frequently on gradual exits where momentum and gravity alone don’t
let me maintain speed, but anything from a regular to intermittent boost from
the poles will be enough to keep going for anywhere from 100 yards to the car,
to a few miles of winding fire road.
Flat/gradual or short uphills
·
Shuffle ski without skins
Basically, the same as skiing, but now you’re pretty much just shuffling. This
is more effective in flat valley bottoms, crossing lakes, etc, where the snow
is either cold or dry, or firm packed. In the former, the abrasive cold powder
may actually provide enough friction that you can begin to classic ski. Start
with very short quick strides to get moving and then lengthen the stride until
you get into a good rhythm without much slip. On firm packed surfaces do this
and double pole, or skate, sometime a mix of the two. I use this technique
often when heading across a short valley back to the car.
·
Skin
Yep, this is obvious: You’re headed back up. Also, if you’re traveling through
rolling terrain, or fast, wetter, fresh snow in flat terrain, you’ll be better
on skins. In the latter, you may find this to be the case even on slightly
downward tilted terrain.
·
Boot
AKA, getting back to your roots. In some situations, the best bet is just to
step out and walk. Classic terrain for this will be a long rolling descent
punctuated by either small hills or flats that can’t be powered over/through
with poles, or well-traveled traverses where a track will provide decent
footing. In certain situations, I will pop out of my bindings on a flat, and
find skier friends down the trail, trying to duck walk with their skis on, while
I walk past them, step back in, and wait for them to catch up. Keep in mind,
booting can also make other peoples’ lives suck. If you’re tearing things up,
don’t be a jerk and make everyone else suffer.
Equipment
Splitboarders have a lot more going on with their gear than
skiers. Regardless of what binding system you use, you have more stuff mounted
to your deck and secured to your feet.
In general, investment will pay off. You have to schlep your
gear to the top of a mountain, and every pound you carry is a pound trying to
keep you from the summit. More, you actually want to enjoy the ride back down.
My experience with DIY boards is that while they may offer a
more familiar ride and a bargain price if you already own it, they’re climbing
performance will suffer, and they likely won’t be the right board for technical
terrain. It’s rare that I espouse true board elitism, but my experience is that
if you want a good ride and performance, buy a board from a snowboard company.
Jones is hands down my top pick, but I hear a lot of positive reviews from
riders on LibTech and Venture. My first board was a Voile Mojo. I still have
it, and call it “old reliable.” It’s base has been scared deeply by early and
late season thin cover, it’s not very light, it’s ride quality in deep pow
sucks, but it was a pretty good jack of all trades, and a great starter. Voile,
while also a ski company, has been in the split business for a long time, and
while their boards lack somewhat compared to the competition in overall
performance, they won’t beat up your wallet as bad either.
For bindings, I’ve gone back to basics, and recommend a puck
and pin system. I think that either Karakoram, Spark, or some unknown upstart
will eventually emerge with a proven, reliable system, but based on my own
experiences and reviews online, I’m going to let them battle it out and smooth
out the kinks in their respective systems before I sink any more cash into
unproven tech.
Boots are straightforward: comfy, warm, lightweight, and
responsive. I’m rocking Burton Driver Xs. They’re all the above. They do have
known issues with the lacing, so beware. I will say that I have never heard
someone on the skin track comment:
“Dang these boots are chaffing/killing/freezing my feet, but
I’m sure glad I got them for dirt cheap.”
If you’re on a budget, consider splurging for the
boots…there’s no lodge in the backcountry to retire to if your feet are
shredded.
Keep hardware mounted to the deck and the bindings tight,
watch straps for wear, and pivot points and connections for play. Touring is
stressful on equipment. Sure, you may only do a few runs a day while touring
compared to dozens at a resort, but you are actually probably working your
boots, bindings, and boards as hard. What’s more, in certain cases, failure may
carry consequences. Keep everything tuned and replace worn parts before you
head out on an epic.
My standards for gear are reliability first, lightweight
second. I want to be confident in my stuff, and I don’t want it to weigh me
down.
Waxing
Kind of in the same vane as equipment maintenance, keep your
bases waxed for conditions. Skinning is nasty on the bases. Ice crystals that
sit between the skin and base will dry things out. Meanwhile, no snowboarder
wants to get caught in a flat. Good glide can keep you cruising through. I
usually wax every other weekend, or after a significant change in weather. I
usually put the boards away for the season with a coat of Swix pink I can
scrape off quickly should I do any summer skiing. In the late summer or fall, I
will throw on swix purple so the bases are more inclined for colder glacier
powder in September or October.
Make sure to do a good job scraping and brushing bases after
waxing. Residual wax will end up stuck to your skins, killing the glue, and possibly
your run. Resort skiing, you can get away with being lazy on scraping, and just
slam a few icy groomers. Not so when skiing powder.
Travel with the right crew
Probably nothing kills me more than the following two
statements:
“I quit splitboarding because I was tired of being the ‘slow-boarder.’”
“I quit splitboarding because I was tired of my friends
dragging me on huge traverses and making my life hell.”
If this is you, if your friends can’t wait 60 extra second
for you, if your friends are intentionally taking you places to make your life
suck, or intentionally skiing lame traverses, I hate to be the one to break it
to you, but these people are not your friends.
First off, your transitions should not take significantly
longer than a skier’s. If they are, you need to figure out why and speed it up.
It’s true, you may have to stay on the hustle, but that’s fine, you came out to
ride, right?
If your skier friend(s) can’t sit tight for an extra 60
seconds though, what makes you think they’re gonna have the patience to dig you
out of a slide, or have the patience to keep eyes on you while you drop a
technical line?
As for your friends trying to make your life hard, well, good-natured
ribbing is a part of the skin track conversation. If your friends intentionally
ski areas for no other reason than so you suffer though, that’s both your fault
for going with, and their character flaw for being d-bags.
Snowboards perform best in steeper, deeper terrain. This is
what you should be looking for when you go touring, and your partners should be
looking at the mountain the same way. Most my skier partners would be described
as having an “aggressive” style. They like to open it up, and look for direct
fall lines, or playful features.
It’s not to say they’re doing it right, and any other way is
wrong; I also have ski partners that can work a mountain to death, eeking out
turns where no one would imagine them. I admire them as well. That doesn’t mean
I’ll traverse halfway across a bowl to wiggle a half-dozen turns on some
roll-over, but you bet that I’m happy to share trail breaking, and keep eyes on
them while they get after it if they do the same for me.
The best dynamic in touring partners is teamwork. Everyone is
out there for the same reason: having fun and skiing pow. Your crew should be
talking the whole time about what’s best for everyone. When it works, it’s
awesome, and you know it.